Allure (April 2015)

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Sample text

Obscured by his own creation, Réard disappeared into the shadowy background and into fashion’s mythology. qxp 8/1/2011 11:50 AM Page 32 Beachwear in 1952: fashion parade in the Janika-Bar, Berlin. qxp 8/1/2011 11:50 AM Page 33 Beachwear in 1952: fashion parade in the Janika-Bar, Berlin. qxp 8/1/2011 11:50 AM Page 34 Readers of Vogue had to wait until July 1948 to see the first twopiece costume. Even then, it appeared without accompanying text as an illustration in an advertisement for the latest Helena Rubinstein sun cream.

The swimsuits she wears, black for the most part, relieve her of sexual desirability and turn activities on the beach into a healthy sport, useful to the well-being of the nation (if not also to the increase of the population). The black bandeau through the hair of the 1940 bather reinforces the sense of austerity and of remoteness from us. But it was, of course, only an outward manifestation of the countrywide discipline which, then, ruled everyday life. This discipline – like the discipline to be found in sporting activities, among groups of young people playing in the woods at trench warfare, or in situations where strict conformity to the ethics of working in the equivalent of a beehive was required – served to prepare an entire nation for war, and applied to children as much as it did to the elderly.

And women might in fact also be encouraged, rather than be put off by such pictures of nearnudity, to play with a ball on a beach in a practical and light costume. Not reproduced in the magazine were less emotive pictures from the Villa Romana del Casale that did not show bikinis. They depicted sporting costumes that were no doubt the kind of thing the people of A mosaic dating from the 3rd or 4th century AD, depicting girls at play wearing bikini-like two-piece costumes. A chunk of mosaic found in the Villa Romana del Casale – possibly once owned by the Roman Emperor Maximian – in the Piazza Armerina, Sicily.

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