By Jean Leinhauser
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Additional resources for 100 Hats to Knit & Crochet
If you hear it said that Mr. So-and-So wears superb jewellery, you may conclude beforehand that he wears too much. 8 (39–40) The key to this sartorial invisibility, according to conduct manuals, was never to appear too fashionable, too ﬁtted, too well dressed. Advice writers con sistently warned against overdressing, far more zealously than underdressing. The Habits of Good Society asserts that the gentleman must avoid “all extravagance, all splendour, and all profusion” (140). Chasing the recherché or striving to remain ever on the cutting edge of fashion was not the proper business of reserved mas culinity.
The Habits of Good Society declares, “Good dressing is . . to carry your clothes as if you did not give them a thought” (156). For the author of The English Gentleman (1849), the concern and eﬀort a man devoted to his dress and appearance was a secret to be left in the toilette and never revealed in public: Take care that your things are well made, and that they suit your age and ﬁgure. Put them on in the best and most becoming manner that you can. Have nothing slovenly in your appearance. But when you have left your dressing-room, give yourself no further trouble about them.
Chasing the recherché or striving to remain ever on the cutting edge of fashion was not the proper business of reserved mas culinity. Samuel Beeton, author of Beeton’s Manners of Polite Society (1879), instructs that “a well-dressed man will never be the ﬁrst to set a new fashion, he will allow others to hazard the innovation, and decline the questionable honour of being the ﬁrst to advertise a novelty” (28). A true gentleman was to wear his clothing somewhat loosely and to avoid the overstarched neckcloth, stuﬀed shirt, and skin-tight trousers that belied the overreaching counterfeit.